Actives – Speciality Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Alpha Hydroxy Acids are organic compounds that consist of a carboxylic acid with one hydroxyl group on alpha (first carbon) position of the acid. They function by exfoliating the skin by decreasing corneocyte cohesion within the stratum corneum.

New Active Ingredients

  • TEGO Renewha Malto – an aldonic acid obtained from the oxidation of maltose. It is comprised of one molecule of D-glucose attached to D-gluconic acid. In addition to skin exfoliation benefits, the material can provide several addition skin protective benefits.
  • TEGO Renewha Lacto – an aldonic acid obtained from the oxidation of lactose and comprises of a galactose moiety linked to a gluconic acid molecule via an ether-like linkage. Owing to the high number of hydroxyl groups, LBA is very hygroscopic and forms gels containing around 14% water with atmospheric moisture. This performance is reportedly better than traditional humectants such as glycerin and sorbitol.
  • TEGO Renewha Mandelic – an aromatic alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). Although originally derived from amygdalin, an extract from almonds, most mandelic acid today is synthetically produced. Due to its larger molecular structure relative to other AHAs like glycolic acid, mandelic acid is known to have slower penetration into the skin, which helps moderate skin irritation. Mandelic acid also improves skin conditions including UV-driven lentigenes, darkening of skin seen with melasma, inflammatory acne, wrinkles, and fine lines.
  • TEGO Renewha HODA – a blend of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) hydroxycarpric acid and hydroxycaprilic acid in butylene glycol. Besides facilitating the incorporation of the AHAs into formulations, its longer carbon chain length AHAs are able to provide a good balance between low skin irritation and appearance benefit performance.
  • TEGO Renewha Cap – an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) with a ten carbon chain length. Because of its longer carbon chain relative to other AHAs, the material is known absorb more slowly into the skin, thereby reducing overall irritation potential.

 

Why they’re unique

Traditional Alpha Hydroxy Acids are recognised as effective exfoliators with a variety of benefits – however, there is one major drawback – skin irritation.

Evonik’s latest speciality Alpha Hydroxy Acids are unique in that provide effective skin renewal whilst also reducing irritation and catering for sensitive skin types.

Key Benefits

  • Improved appearance of skin blemishes for the consumer
  • Effective skin exfoliation leading to a youthful appearance
  • Proven safe for use in cosmetics
  • Less irritating than conventional AHA’s
  • Skin moisturisation and humectancy benefits
  • Suitable for sensitive skin types

To read about all Evoniks latest active ingredients, please click here.

For more information or to request a sample of any of the above active ingredients, please contact us or send us an email at sales@surfachem.de.

Thursday, 12 November, 2020

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