What’s NEW? in-cosmetics® 2025

In April 2025, Surfachem, alongside its sister companies, Bregaglio, Ingretech, Chemir, and Surfachem Poland and Deutschland – exhibited at In-Cosmetics Global in Amsterdam.

The event brought together distributors, manufacturers, formulators, and researchers to explore the latest breakthroughs shaping personal care. A clear shift in consumer attitudes was evident. There is a growing demand for reliable claims, science-driven efficacy, and authenticity. Reported by Mckinsey and Company, around 20% of UK and US consumers prioritise natural and clean ingredients, but around half identify clinical effectiveness as a top purchasing factor when buying wellness products.

Brands need to take into consideration that the modern consumer is much more knowledgeable on ingredients and formulations, therefore they must position themselves strategically to foster trust in their products.

This article highlights exciting launches from our core supplier portfolios, empowering formulators and brand developers to bring in reliable claims that don’t compromise performance.

Next-gen collagen and anti-ageing innovations combine new advances in technology such as collagen, growth factors and peptides that promise effective results compared to traditional skincare. In 2025, this category will be defined by delivery systems and bio-enabled regeneration that target cellular repair and create skin longevity.

There is a growing preference for products with proven clinical efficacy with a combination of early intervention that preserves skin health. Euromonitor has highlighted that 80% of consumers would purchase beauty products that have proven benefits, underscoring the demand for science-backed products.

To meet these evolving expectations, the following ingredient targets key mechanisms of skin ageing, enhancing collagen synthesis, and long-term skin longevity.

  • Vecollage® Fortify GP (Evonik)
    A vegan, skin-identical collagen polypeptide powered by exosome-mediated signalling to strengthen the dermal-epidermal junction and support collagen production — ideal for post-procedure care.
  • MatriGold® NG (Evonik)
    gold-enhanced peptide for collagen stimulation, improved skin firmness, and a premium positioning in luxury or clean science-led skincare.
  • InuMax® Advanced Retinol Pro *(Evonik) *
    Delivers 8.5% stabilised, encapsulated retinol for potent results with excellent tolerability — enabling bold anti-ageing claims in sensitive-friendly formats.
  • KaliGen (Kalichem)
    A biotech-derived complex of nucleotides and nucleic acids that boosts native collagen synthesis and accelerates skin regeneration, inspired by natural skin repair.

According to Mintel, 67% of women seek skin-health benefits, which is driving demand for protection beyond sun care due to environmental changes and climate-related damage to the skin barrier. Furthermore, Mintel’s analysis on the men’s skincare market has highlighted that half of the men agree that it is important to use of products that improve the skin’s health.

Modern skincare is evolving to protect, repair and enhance the surface appearance and the underlying health beneath the skin barrier. General skin health is viewed as a part of overall wellness, driving demand for solutions that restore and protect the skin’s natural defences while also addressing more profound problems like moisture and the barrier.

The ingredient below aligns with modern skincare prirorities, especially where consumers prefer for light elegant, non-greasy textures.

  • SKINLIPIX® HydraShield (Evonik)
    A plant-oil-based ceramide and moisturiser complex that strengthens both inner and outer barriers, improves hydration, and shields the skin from external stressors — all in a formulation-friendly, water-dispersible system.
  • dermosoft® GPT MB (Evonik)
    multifunctional antimicrobial booster with skin-friendly, microbiome-safe properties. Offers added benefits like odour masking and pigment wetting, making it a smart solution for barrier-focused, minimal preservative formulas.

Today’s formulations go beyond the cleansing experience on the skin; it’s about the sensorial feel, the long-term benefits and the functions. To achieve formulations that fit into this new expectation, brands must incorporate aspects that introduce advanced moisture/ nourishing properties and luxurious textures that preserve the skin’s natural defence system.

Consumers are seeking products that address multiple concerns at once. This trend driven by busy lifestyles and a need for time efficient routines. Multipurpose products offer a streamlined approach that does not compromise on results.

The following ingredients are reshaping in the cleansing category by offering gentle, yet effective performance, enhanced with sensorial qualities that align with modern consumer expectations.

  • TEGOSOFT® BC MB (Evonik)
    bio-catalysed wax ester that’s light, fast-absorbing, and produced with renewable energy — offering a 70% lower carbon footprint vs fossil alternatives. Exceptional for natural sun care and colour cosmetics.

Innovations in the colour space are driven by creating an elevated experience for the consumer. Brands are turning to visually captivating formulations that not only engage the senses but also foster a deeper connection with users.

Forbes reports that some of 2025’s trending colours include butter yellow — a soft, creamy pastel shade that’s perfect for spring and summer. This sunlight shade has made waves in the fashion, interior and beauty industry. Butter yellow has shown an increase a 367% in Google searches and an increase of 69% in the last 3 months. Following the butter yellow trend, comes the emergence of the plum colour. The emphasis on plum as a standout shade is only set to grow, driven by a wave of high-impact product launches that include, Glow Recipe’s Plum Plump Cream, REFY’s Cream Blush in Plum, Rhode Pocket Blush in Plum, Le Prunier’s Plum Beauty Oil and Benefit’s BADgal BANG! Mascara in Plum.

A new wave of innovation is shaped by the demand for products free from synthetic dyes and heavy preservatives. Consumers are gravitating to products that are eco-friendly, clean, and safe. The focus is now a combination of multifunctional ingredients that are environmentally friendly, and gentle for the skin.

Together, these ingredients represent natural/plant-based solutions, functional benefits like antioxidants and skin compatibility.

The foundation for beautiful and healthy hair lies within the roots and the scalp. This trend is driven by modern consumers taking haircare as a part of their overall wellness routine and a combination of health concerns, such as anti-dandruff and hair loss solutions. As a result, the demand for science backed solutions has surged.

Reported by Stylus, In the UK, around 90% of 18–24-year-olds report being stressed out by losing their hair. The Business of Fashion has reported that in 2024, scalp serums are seeing a growth in interest with searches growing by 15.7%. With these concerns, brands are developing targeted formulations that address functional issues but also combine the sensorial and gentle aspects to create a holistic haircare experience.

The ingredients below highlight a modern, functional approach to haircare focused on, sustainable cleaning, scalp-to revitalisation, performance-driven styling and protection.

  • RHEANCE® D50 (Evonik)
    mild rhamnolipid surfactant made from sugar, offering creamy foam, deep cleansing, and low aquatic toxicity. 100% biodegradable and ideal for sulfate-free, eco-conscious formulations.
  • CapilMax® NG (Evonik)
    A blend of amino acids and botanical extracts (including rosemary and alfalfa) that revitalises hair from the root, boosts volume and thickness, and supports scalp hydration.

These ingredients highlight cutting edge solutions, from dual action exfoliants to innovative colour systems and UV filters.

The suncare market is growing as products are no longer used during just the summertime, it’s a part of the daily skin routine.

Leading this change is the is multifunctional formulas, the merge skincare with sun protection. UV defence is one of the main drivers for this trend. Consumers want broad spectrum protection, alongside, actives that address uneven skin tone, dullness and sensitivity.

These ingredients are designed to address uneven skin tone, dullness and UV-induced damage to promote skin visible renewal, while promoting clean and inclusive formulation.

  • MaquiGlow® (Evonik)
    natural antioxidant extract from Maqui berries, designed to reduce hyperpigmentation, even out skin tone, and enhance luminosity. Ideal for glow-boosting serums and brightening treatments with a nature-forward story.
  • Novascrub® Arroz (Evonik)
    dual exfoliator combining rice powder with kiwi fruit extract for both physical and AHA exfoliation. Helps cleanse deeply, refine texture, and leave skin smooth — perfect for gentle resurfacing and skin prep products.

The future of skincare is being shaped by multifunctional, clinically backed ingredients that deliver visible results while aligning with evolving consumer values.

Reach out to our team to learn more about these cutting-edge ingredients and discover how we can support your next formulation in both in innovation and efficacy.

Mittwoch, 11 Juni, 2025

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